A Weekend in Plav and the Prokletije Mountains

Why Prokletije?

The Prokletije range, "the Accursed Mountains" in the local name, forms the southernmost stretch of the Dinaric Alps and straddles the Montenegro, Albania, and Kosovo borders. On the Montenegrin side, Prokletije National Park covers roughly 16,000 hectares centred on Plav and its lake.

It is Montenegro's least visited national park. Where Durmitor has crowds and Lake Skadar has boat fleets, Prokletije has serious walkers and almost nobody else. Over 1,700 plant species grow here, 50 of them endemic. You hike past sheep herders whose families have used these summer pastures for centuries.

Plav sits far enough off the main tourist corridor that most people fold it into a longer circuit, and the suggested driving routes across Montenegroshow how it links up with Kolašin, Andrijevica and the Tara canyon without doubling back.

The drive from Podgorica

It's roughly 155 km to Plav via Berane, a 3-hour drive in good conditions. The route climbs steadily through Kolašin (our Biogradska Gora guide covers the national park just off this road if you want a half-day break from driving) and then cuts east across mountain country. The final descent into Plav opens onto the lake with Prokletije rising behind it, and that single moment justifies the drive.

Before winter travel, check current road closures and official winter-equipment requirements, and confirm the vehicle’s equipment with the rental company. Snow and ice can affect mountain access.

Plav as a base

Plav is a small town beside Plav Lake, with supermarkets, bakeries and restaurants. Compare accommodation for your dates and confirm meals and other inclusions directly.

Gusinje, 10 km further into the mountains, is even smaller and quieter. It's the traditional base for treks into Albania's Karanfili peaks. Both towns have guesthouses (pansion) and a couple of hotels.

If the return leg to the capital feels like wasted time after two days of walking, dropping the car off at a different locationlets you carry on north or finish at the coast instead.

Day 1, an easier introduction

For the first day, choose Lake Hrid via Babino Polje and Bajrovića Katun. This is a separate approach from the Grebaje Valley near Gusinje. Confirm the access road and trail conditions with the park office before setting out; allow time for a mountain walk through forest to the glacial lake.

Back in Plav by late afternoon. Dinner lakeside. Traditional cicvara (polenta with clotted cream) and grilled trout are the regional staples.

Day 2, the serious hike

The headline walk is Volušnica (1,879 m) and Popadija/Talijanka (2,057 m) in the Grebaje Valley. Count on 5 hours total. The views from Volušnica across the Karanfili, a row of jagged limestone peaks, are the signature photo of Prokletije. Ask the park office about local guides, availability and the current price before booking.

Alternatives if 5 hours is too much

Bajrovića Katun to Lake Hrid, 2-3 hours, easy.

Plav Lake circuit, 16.5 km flat walk around the lake. Takes 4 hours at a slow pace, no guide required.

Consider a scenic drive towards the Čakor mountain pass, then return the same way. Check local road conditions before leaving and do not plan this as a border crossing.

What should you know before visiting?

• Park entry: Check the current admission tariff, concessions and payment arrangements with the national park before visiting.
• Guides: For anything above Volušnica, hire a local guide. Weather turns fast and waymarking thins out.
• Accommodation: Check current guesthouse or hotel rates for your dates and confirm whether breakfast is included. Reserve ahead for July and August.
• Food: Try cicvara and krempita (a custard slice). The local cheese is outstanding.
• Mobile signal: Patchy in the valleys. Download offline maps before leaving Plav.
• Cross-border: Before planning a cross-border hike, check permitted crossings, required permits and travel documents with the relevant border authorities. A marked trail or passport alone does not establish permission to cross.

What the drive to Plav actually asks of you

Mountain roads around Andrijevica and the Lim valley have bends, narrow stretches and surfaces that can deteriorate after winter. Check conditions before departure and fuel up before heading into the valleys. Use designated parking, confirm any charges locally and keep the rental car on paved public roads.

Return to Podgorica

Same route back via Berane and Kolašin, or take the longer route via Rožaje and the Ibar Valley if you want variety. Both are 3-3.5 hours.