Biogradska Gora, Walking One of Europe's Last Virgin Rainforests

Why Biogradska Gora matters

Biogradska Gora is one of the last three large stands of primeval mixed forest in Europe. The core, around 1,600 hectares, has never been commercially logged, and some of the beech and fir trees have stood for 500 years or more. recognised the area as a Biosphere Reserve, and Montenegro designated the park as early as 1952, making it one of the oldest protected areas in the Balkans.

The whole park covers about 5,400 hectares centred on Biogradsko Jezero, a glacial lake at 1,094 metres altitude. Around it: nine more glacial lakes scattered through the Bjelasica mountains, 86 tree species, 150 birds, and trout in the waterways.

The final park access road is patched and potholed in places, which is why walkers heading up here often prefer an SUV with higher ground clearanceto the lowest-slung hatchback on offer.

Royal hunting grounds, the origin

The reason the forest survives untouched is King Nikola I Petrović, who in 1878 declared the land around Lake Biograd as royal hunting grounds. For nearly a century afterwards, no logging was allowed. The 1952 national park designation preserved the outcome of that royal decree.

The drive from Podgorica

Around 90 km from Podgorica via the E65 through Kolašin, allow two hours. Follow the E65 north through the Morača Canyon (itself worth a stop for the 13th-century monastery) to Kolašin. From Kolašin, the park entrance is another 15-20 minutes via Poda. Signs are clear.

The final approach is a narrow asphalt road; once inside the park boundary, continue to the main car park at the lake visitor centre.

If you would rather build the forest into a longer loop north, it sits neatly alongside the other driving routes out of Podgorica, most of which follow the same road as far as Mojkovac.

The easy option, Biogradsko Lake loop

A flat, fully walkable 3.5 km loop around the lake. Takes about an hour at a relaxed pace, longer if you stop for photos. Suitable for all ages, strollers manage most of it. Boardwalks, forest path, occasional bridges. Deer sightings are common early or late. Rowboat rental at the visitor centre if you want to go on the water (€8-10 per hour).

Longer hikes for fit walkers

The park has 49 marked routes in total, of which 14 are classified as easy. A couple worth noting:

• Biograd Lake to Bendovac peak: 3-4 hours round trip. Steady climb through beech forest, opening onto pasture at the top. Moderate.
• Eko-Katun Vranjak to Pešića Jezero loop: 16.4 km, about 5 hours. The long option, starts above the main lake, heads up to a traditional mountain hut (katun) and a higher glacial lake. Classified as difficult. This is the park's signature long walk.
• Troglav summit (2,072 m): Full-day for experienced hikers. Steep final ascent, exposed above treeline.

Eko-Katuni, traditional mountain huts

Summer pastures inside the park still operate under the katun system, mountain-hut dairy farms where shepherds move their flocks for the grazing season. Vranjak is the most accessible; walk 45 minutes up from the lake. They'll sell you fresh cheese, sour milk, and sometimes lunch. Cash only, small denominations.

Practical tips

• Park entry: €3-5 per person depending on season. Car park fee additional €2-3.
• Map: Pick up the park map at the entrance booth. Mobile signal disappears inside the forest.
• Season: May-October for hiking. Winter the upper park gets significant snow and most trails are impassable without proper gear.
• Wildlife: Bears live in the park. Attacks are vanishingly rare but make noise when hiking solo.
• Swimming: The lake is cold year-round, 15-18°C in summer. Some locals still plunge.
• Food: Restaurant Biogradsko Jezero by the lake serves trout and traditional dishes. For better food, eat in Kolašin on the way back.

Road conditions and parking at the lake

Everything as far as the turn-off is straightforward main road. The last few kilometres to the lake are different: a single-track climb with patched asphalt, broken edges and occasional potholes, plus a handful of blind bends where you reverse to a passing place if you meet a car coming down. It is slow rather than difficult. Park in the marked area near the lake and walk in; on summer weekends it fills by late morning, so arrive early. Fuel at Kolašin or Mojkovac, as there is nothing inside the park. Snow can shut the approach between December and March, and the trails are at their best from May to October. A short wheelbase helps more than sheer size here, because the passing places are tight.

Combine with

Pair Biogradska with our Morača Canyon drive, you'll pass through the canyon on the way there and back. Makes a full, satisfying day.